For centuries Kioni
was a thriving fishing village
and port that served the then large mountain village of Anoghi, built high on a plateau beneath Ithaka's highest mountain Neritos, by a packhorse trail that led up through the forested hillside behind. Fishing boats and caiques waiting to load grain, olive oil and wine from the interior, would have filled this exquisite small harbour.
Nowadays fishing boats are still present but they share their moorings with visiting yachts and the caiques carrying people not goods. In a charming way Kioni is once again a hive of activity
, but stroll along the bay on a lane lined with bougainvillea and oak trees
that lean over the water and the pace of life becomes much slower.
From the apartments you can continue along the lane past a whitewashed chapel and through mixed woodland to the pretty little beach
where an unassuming kantina sits amongst the trees, serving delicious lunchtime snacks, often with fresh fish
Kioni waterfront with its tavernas and mini market
is no more than ten minutes walk away, but why worry about time when you can stop off at one or all of the three tiny, almost hidden beaches
(hint: look for steps!) for a quick dip in crystal clear waters on the way there or back again.